Stewart’s 2022 Tri-County Cabernet gives one grape three very different addresses. Cabernet Sauvignon from Mendocino, Sonoma, and Napa comes together, with each vineyard chosen for what it contributes to the whole. The result is California Cabernet built on contrast rather than uniformity. Blair Guthrie learned early that place changes everything. The Christchurch native came to California for the 2009 harvest at Paul Hobbs’ Crossbarn, later worked in South Australia and at Kunde, then joined Stewart in 2015 as winemaker and vineyard manager. Tri-County gives him a broad canvas for putting that experience to work. The cellar work keeps the wine focused. The 2022 was fermented whole-berry in stainless steel, then aged 10 months in French oak, 40% new, adding structure and polish without overwhelming the fruit. At $25, this is an unusually thoughtful bottle of North Coast Cabernet for the money.