Charly Nicolle has just one hectare of Mont de Milieu. Within it, 50- to 60-year-old Chardonnay vines reach into the Kimmeridgian marl beneath this Premier Cru hillside. It is a small holding of mature vines, and Nicolle can bottle only what this hectare yields. Nicolle gives Mont de Milieu time to develop. The 2024 ferments for 25 days, completes full malolactic fermentation, then spends more than a year on its lees. Most remains in stainless steel, while 20% goes into 400-liter barrels. The 2024 has substance and precision: breadth and richness, with citrus, mineral character, and a long, saline-tinged finish. It has the depth to carry Nicolle’s extended élevage without losing the definition of Chablis. At $55, this is a rare chance at one hectare of old-vine Premier Cru Chablis.