Bussia is the reason to stop and pay attention to this $29.99 Barbera. The family grows the fruit at Cascina Canavere in Bussia, Monforte d’Alba, one of Barolo’s most respected crus. That gives this bottle a level of vineyard pedigree rarely attached to Barbera at this price. Giacosa Fratelli has been working these hills since the end of the 19th century. The family traces the winery to 1895, when Giuseppe Giacosa began building the business from humble roots in Neive. More than a century later, the family still farms its own vineyards across the Langhe, with Bussia among the most important pieces of the estate. Barbera takes on a different dimension when it comes from ground like this. Giacosa ferments the wine on its skins, then matures it in large 60-hectoliter casks, preserving the grape’s natural freshness and acidity while adding breadth and harmony. It is a traditional approach that lets the character of Bussia stay firmly in view.