2017 TONI JOST BACHARACHER HAHN KABINETT RIESLING “Zesty and piquantly pip-inflected lime and apple dominate both nose and palate; yet, the latter displays not just a silken feel but also a paradoxical sense of plushness - perhaps partly a function of sheer extract. A hint of papaya familiar from this site emerges with aeration. High residual sugar supports the fruit without generating any sense of bifurcation with the wine’s high acidity. The brightly-juicy, almost stingingly tart-edged but indubitably invigorating finish sticks to the guns with alkalinity, wet stone and mouthwatering salinity. As dense and powerful as the wine is — and given that it came from fruit win the low-nineties Oechsle- one could legitimately question the Josts having designated it “Kabinet.” 92 Points